September 17, 2004
Melbourne Guide
I realised that I have not put a melbourne guide together, so in the spirit of the NY guide here is the CRISPY GUIDE TO MELBOURNE.
Its going to be a work in progress so to start it off here are a couple of online guides
Online Guides
Melbourne Citysearch
http://melbourne.citysearch.com.au/
The place to find out what is going on, listings, directory, maps and more.
Miettas Guide has come to replace cheap eats as the must have for knowing where to dine in Melbourne
Melbourne Bar Secrets
is a great guide to where to drink in Melbourne with maps and guides and information, it is like a box of playing cards unfortunately it doesn't have much of an online presence - but it does direct you to where you can buy one via Remo Online.
Thats Me!bourne
a site run by the Melbourne City Council - great source of information but actually very ugly to look at. They have special offers, tons of information and are always uptodate but those colours...
http://www.thatsmelbourne.com.au/
Restaurants
Melbourne's restaurants and bars set it apart from other cities the style is more than a statement, it probably comes from the rich italian and greek migrant heritage combined with the Melbourne establishment demanding every greater levels of culinary excellence. There are so many outstanding venues so I have just covered the ones I find truely special.
Becco Crossley Place Melbourne
Becco is an institution in eating fine italian food Melbourne style. Start with a Becco Macchiato - vodka, tonic, fresh lime, campari - yum. Then the stuffed olives just like robbies mum makes. I am a huge fan of the veal but everything is so tasty and you always have to end it with the torrone (home made nougat to you and me) delicious I am hungry just writing this.
Cicciolina 130 Acland Street St Kilda
03 9525 3333
Cicciolina is outstanding. Its small, dark with wood and a wall of art. The food is quite legendary, but you can't book so enjoy a drink in the cocktail bar out the back and they may tempt you to enjoy a delicious bar snack while you wait.
Punch Lane Little Bourke St Melbourne
Another great Melbourne stand by, excellent food, great bar, great wine list - it all feels like a private club that you have been lucky enough to become a member of (except there are no fees, no stuffy rules, just great staff).
Langtons 61 Flinders Lane Melbourne
03 9663 0222
http://www.langtonsrestaurant.com.au/
Over the past 6 years I have enjoyed Langtons through 3 major changes in chef and style. It is still one of the great restaurants, it feels so slick. The table cloths are ironed daily, the staff are super professional - the best of the best, the wine list is a tome.
It is hard to go past the daily carvery always a treat so succulent and soft. They also make a great coffee.
Yu-u
(I am not telling you where this is)
Oh so so so good Japanese food, it is truely life changing. You don't need to know more except don't expect big bills, huge wine lists, or to get in without a booking.
Mitsuzu Victoria St Albert Park
Together with the spunky sake bar next door, this is another of the great Melbourne eating establishments, the murals on the wall are a wonderful treat bringing a three dimensional depth to the space, and the lovely traditional japnese garden out the back adds to the reasons you need to visit.
A huge range of Sake available, and alsorts of great japanese food.
Syracuse Bank Place Melbourne
Syracuse is another perfect example of the kind of restaurant that Melbourne does so well and Sydney can only dream of. (tough statement that). I can't tell you what about makes the place only describe the combination of marble, polished boards worn down through years of service, a mismatch of antique tables, and classic chairs. The huge wine list, the classic italian food, the stylish waiters with crisp linen - it all adds up to a sense of style so typically melbourne.
Cafes
Melbourne seems to live on coffee, the absolute drive for the perfect bean, barrista, latte or espresso - I don't know if it is snobbery, that Melbourne is a little further along the coffee maturity curve or it may again hark back to the migrant heritage. Its not just about the coffee of course, many of these places are the home of great food and it is hard to categorise between bar, restaurant and cafe. Melbourne the home of cafe culture, whatever that is.Beetroot
Cafe Racer
Wall 280
Cowderoy Dairy
Cafe a Taglio
Il Fornaio
Postal Hall
Cafe Eccucina
Bars
I am getting through them...
Cookie
Swanston St
Melbourne
Cookie is one of the new generation of Melbourne Bars that has just got it so right, an amazing range of beers (hundreds) good indoor and outdoor spaces and a great restaurant. The crowd is very different at different times of the day and night and a dj plays evenings to the wee small hours. Conveniently it is right across the road from the lounge
Lounge
Swanston St
Melbourne
Read what "the worlds best bars" has to say about The Lounge
A melbourne institution. So many good times had here over the last 15 years (I have to admit most were over 10 years ago) however it is still a great place for a drink a dance, a late night beer or even lunch on the balcony.
Meyers Place
Melbourne Wine Room
Fitzroy St
St Kilda
Once it was the George Hotel, under Don Levy's guidance it became legendary, others such as Maurice gave it more of a push in the right direction - now it is just a really great bar (goes absolutely off on a Friday night) a great place for dinner (if you dont mind the smoke) with outstanding steaks cooked to perfection.
The Supper Club
Spring St
Melbourne
Up at the top of the city above the classic European cafe is the Melbourne Supper Club. More than style it oozes the true underbelly of Melbourne living, a place you have to stumble over or be introduced to it features, over stuffed, over worn, comfy leather lounges, dimmed lighting, outstanding martinis, cognac and cigars... You never know who is sitting across the gloom from you unless you venture over....
Mink
Acland St
St Kilda
Melbournes original vodka bar, with an enormous range of infused and original blends. It harks back to the industrial russian style of check point charlie nightclub (now long gone) this place has tons of style (and conveniently in the basement of the Prince hotel)
La La Land
Hardware St
Melbourne
There is a string of La La Lands opening up but this one in the centre of the city is a comfortable change from the norm. I like as it is near my office and a cosy stop for a Friday drink, gas fire comfy old lounge, great range of beers on tap.
Pause
Live Music
Bennetts Lane
The Prince
The Espy
Museums and Galleries
Melbourne Museum
Scienceworks Museum
National Gallery of Victoria
Ian Potter Gallery NGV at Federation Square
Australian Contemporary Museum
The Arts Centre
Sport
MCG - Cricket, Football
Telstra Dome - Rugby, Football, Cricket everything
Rod Laver Arena & Vodafone Arena - Australian Open Tennis
Posted by crispin at 08:16 PM | Comments (0)
April 26, 2004
New York Guide
The most important thing to know when you are in Manhattan is that the roads run on a north south and east west axis, this means that people talk about uptown (arround central park) upper west side (the west side of central park), downtown (tribecca, soho, noho, little italy, grenwich village etc), midtown (the business district close to times square). The roads from East to West start at first avenue and go to twelth, it is important to note that many of the roads have multiple names ie fifth is also park avenue...Avenue of the Americas is sixth and Broadway breaks the rules by running diagonally across the island.
The other important thing to know is that everyone will expect you to know the closest cross street (yes you do need a map) see all the addresses below for an idea. To make it easier often the streets will be named east or west ie west 42nd Street means west of 5th avenue or east 42nd Street means east of 5th avenue.
One general item to note: tipping is not customary in the US, it is required. In NY 15% is for poor to fair service. Good service warrants 20%. An Aussie accent will usually get a warm welcome in NY, unless you tip poorly, then look out.
With help from Rob & Xan, I have put together a longer guide click here..
Comment from Rob
"I noticed that you are soliciting comments on the NY guide from those of us who know and love Das Apple. Generally, I think your guide is smashing, the first bit is probably the most useful for the clueless traveler. The whole streets vs. avenues thing is also important—you might want to mention that streets run cross town (east-west) and avenues run the length of the island (north-south). Also that taxi shift change-over time (roughly 4-5 PM) is an impossible time to get a cab. Otherwise, its quite close to what I would have put together myself." - I have added Rob recommendations...
Online Guides
Must see new york - this is one of many sites that do online discounts for tickets to shows etc.. (this is with out doubt the cheapest way to do anything in the US and the later you buy the lower the price seems to be)
http://www.mustseenewyork.com/index.html
The L is a gig guide (both printed and online) for the funky parts of NY including SoHo TriBecca and includes DUMBO and Brooklyn I quite liked it.
A great blog based on NYC
A great photo blog by Japanese photographer Rion based in NYC
The best bars (the L has its own version..)
http://www.worldsbestbars.com/city/NewYork/
http://www.hottraveltips.com/newyork/limo.shtml
http://www.key2newyorkcity.com/
http://www.newyorkmetro.com/index.htm
http://www.papermag.com/
Paper Magazine is one of the institutions for what is hip and happening in NY. In the late 80s and early 90s I used to buy copies in Sydney just to keep intouch with what the hip scene was really doing.
The website has a shopping guide, an eating guide, a clubbing guide, art, action (gym's etc), stage, music, video, film and the list goes on and on - its also a good read.
Things
A disturbing New Yorker...
http://www.subservientchicken.com/
Must Do Places
it is a good idea to call ahead as a number of the museums close one day a week - better to be sure before you venture out! Many of the museums are on Central Park and a couple can be combined into a great day.
The American Museum of Natural History
Central Park West and 79th Street
The Museum is open daily, 10:00 a.m.—5:45 p.m.
The Rose Center remains open on Fridays until 8:45 p.m.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 Fifth Avenue
New York, New York 10028-0198
Phone: 212-535-7710
http://www.metmuseum.org/
The Guggenheim Museum
1071 Fith Ave at 89th
Phone: 212-423-3500
The SoHo Guggenheim Museum (little brother)
575 Broadway
at Prince Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 423-3500
The Whitney Museum of American Art
945 Madison at 75th Ave
http://www.whitney.org/
The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) (closed for renovations till Nov 04)
11 West 53rd NYC and
MoMA Queens
33 Street at Queens Blvd.
Long Island City, Queens
(212) 708-9400
Smaller Galleries
grab a copy of Art Now Gallery Guide which has maps exhibitions etc $3
www.galleryguide.org
OK Harris Works of Art (sculpture +)
383 West Broadway
New York NY
212-431-3600
Socrates Sculpture Park (where Robyn curates)
Broadway at Vernon Blvd
Long Island City Queens 11106
718-956-1819
Other Must Do's
Staten Island Ferry across to the Statue of Liberty - cross the Hudson River and see Manhatten from the water
Central Park - do the ice skating in the park (you can also ice skate open air at the Rockafella building) a walk along the main paths is quite safe but heading onto the trails into the centre of the park is still dangerous - just stick with the people.
The Rockafella Building - go inside and wander about to look at the murals on the walls and ceiling - they were commissioned by Rockafella as part of his capitalist statement - but the message is pure socialism.
link
Dakota Building - the place John and Yoko lived and where he was shot
Northwest Corner of 72nd and Central Park West
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Dakota_building
Flatiron Building
175 Fifth Avenue, 23rd Street, Manhattan
http://www.popartuk.com/photography/flat-iron-building-pp30031-poster.asp
Rainbow Room
30 Rockafella Plaza
link
Times Square
Broadway and 43rd
link
Empire State Building
350 Fifth Avenue, between 33rd and 34th Streets, in midtown Manhattan.
New York, NY 10118
http://www.esbnyc.com/
Chrysler Building
405 Lexington Ave. (between 42nd and 43rd streets)
New York, New York
link
Robs Must Do's
World Trade Center Site
I don’t classify this as a must-do—quite the opposite actually—but I know that a lot of visitors want to see it. And I suppose now that it is a historical site, like an old battlefield or something, but if you must go see it, don’t ask anyone for directions. You are likely to meet an unpleasant response. I used to have a place with an amigo down on Church St. about two blocks away and I know that I have more than once sent camera-toting tourists asking for directions in the neighborhood on a wild goose chase around Battery Park and Hell’s Kitchen just because their morbid curiosity seemed offensive to me. Also, please note that many New Yorkers find the term “Ground Zero” distasteful as well. It’s a sad topic, so I won’t dwell too much on it, but most New Yorkers lost a friend or relative or acquaintance that day so it’s a subject that will likely come up, but it is still a very sensitive one.
Skating at the Rock.
Don’t know if you mentioned this, but skating at the Rockefeller Center (5th Ave between 49th and 50th) is great fun. It’s better during the day as it can be crowded at night. Given what I’ve seen of most Australians’ ice-skating skills, this may be a better spectator sport, but there are plenty of bumbling amateurs on this rink, so if you don’t mind falling on your ass a lot, I say give it a go. You’ve seen it in a million movies, but if you can find your way to the rink on a snowy evening before Christmas, it really is entrancing.
Stores
MoMA Design Store
44 West 53 Street, New York, NY
(212) 767-1050
Saturday–Thursday 10:00 a.m.–6:30 p.m.
Friday 10:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m.
MoMA Design Store, Soho
81 Spring Street, New York, NY
(646) 613-1367
Monday–Saturday 11:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m.
Sunday 11:00 a.m.–7:00 p.m.
Dean and Delucca
This is a NY institution - food glorious food and one of the only places you will find decent coffee, still ask for a double shot or you will find your latte is much too weak. look at the cheese, the bread, the books, it is just the most fantastic place - heaven. I've not been to the Madisson store, and I am sure it is not as great as the SoHo store which you have to go and visit.
SoHo
560 Broadway (Prince Street)
New York, NY 10012
Tel: 212-226-6800
M-S 9:00 am-8:00 pm
Sun 10:00 am-7:00 pm
Madisson
1150 Madison Ave.
New York, NY 10028
Tel: 212-717-0800 M-S 8:00 am-8:00 pm
Evolution
Evolution is a bit of a SoHo institution - a place where you can find one of a kind jade jewlery or just the skull you have always been looking for, part freakshow part shopping culture, very Manhattan and well worth the visit.
120 Spring St.
NYC, NY 10012
Phone: 212-343-1114
Fax: 212-343-1815
Moss
Moss Stores Inc
321 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10017-5101
(212) 867-3771
The Apple Store Soho
Probably the best Apple Store in the world and if you are an apple fan (who isnt) you can play with digital camera's and scanners and iPods and every toy you can imagine - digital heaven.
103 Prince Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 226-3126
http://www.apple.com/retail/soho/
before you shop its well worth reading the paper mag shopping guide
http://www.papermag.com/guide/shop/shop_index.html
Rob's Other Music
http://www.othermusic.com/
Fantastic record shop down in Chelsea (25th btn 6th and 7th). Superb Indie, Soul, Trance, House and whatnot. A true NY music connoisseur’s paradise. My favorite record shop on the East Coast.
Food
Peep - Thai Canteen
177 Prince St. (SoHo/NoHo/Little Italy)
212-254-7337
Space Unlimited Gallery
133 Greene St,
SoHo, Manhattan
212 674 1524
Not quite 'unlimited' in space, but it's a sizeable cafe, with regularly-changing exhibitions on the walls. It hasn't got the biggest selection of food, but it's a popular cafe and a good place to meet friends or catch up on some work (there's lots of power outlets for laptops). Recommended by Xan.
reviews of other eateries at urban 75
http://www.urban75.org/newyork/cafes.html
DinersI love going to american diners and having the classic fare - there are heaps in NY head downtown and look for some good neon.
Yama Sushi
http://www.sushinyc.com/show_rest.asp?pants=fuzzy&restid=59
My favorite sushi in the city. Superb fish, though the waits can be long especially on the weekends. Worth a visit though.
Nobu
http://www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com/Restaurants/nobu/Nobu%20Main.htm
Damn. Fine fine food. Sorta pacific fusion food with a definite Japanese tilt. One of my top ten restaurants ever (it beats Tatsuya in Sydney by a whisker). It’s been hard (like impossible) to get a table here for the past several years. So unless you know a serious A-list star (or are going with me), it’s probably not worth the effort. LA and London locations are equally good and equally hard to get into.
Roberto’s
http://www.newyorkmetro.com/pages/details/8579.htm
"Should you find yourself in the Bronx, in Little Italy near Fordham University, you can do no better than to dine at Roberto’s on Arthur Ave. Goddamn. The pasta fagioli soup is absolutely out of this world. And the veal marsala. And the carpaccio. And the bread is crusty and amazing. And the veal ravioli. Basically, just ask the waiter what’s good and take what he brings out. They have never steered me wrong.
Interesting story about this place. I was visiting an amigo at Fordham and stopped in there because of the name (I’m Robert Arthur, the restaurant is Roberto’s on Arthur Avenue—seemed cool at the time.) Anyways, John Gotti Jr. (big NY mob boss) was eating at the corner table. Now that’s a good indicator that it’s a truly wonderful Italian restaurant. Basically, wander around the neighborhood, pick a restaurant that is staked out by the feds, and enjoy a sumptuous repast…
The other places you have to mention are the delis and corner pizza joints. Every New Yorker has a favorite “slice” and swears that their pizza is the best on the planet. I find NY pizza to be not-too-good myself, but the delis more than make up for it. Belly up to the counter (best are the Kosher delis on the upper west side) and order a giant sandwich and enjoy. Damn fine easy eating. Cheap too."
Drink
There are so many bars, all the big hotels (like the W) have groovy bars but I am not the expert so try worlds best bars (link above).
Hotels
As above but the hotels I have liked include:
The W
there are 5 of them in NY
http://www.starwood.com/whotels/index.html
Tribecca Grand
where I stayed last trip - great bars underneath funky grooves at night
SoHo Grand
http://www.sohogrand.com/
Rob:
"I agree with the W assessment; good all around hotels and some of the most comfortable beds around. My New York favorites though are both smaller boutiques by Ian Schrager:"
The Royalton
http://www.ianschragerhotels.com/home_search.html?royalton
Supremely cool and comfortable and the bar is also a favorite (though very sceney and quite pricey, but worth it for the wildlife). Another fantastic Ian Schrager Hotel (like the Clift in SF, the Mondrian in LA and St. Martin’s Lane in London and Morgans (below) also in NY). Book one of the upper floor suites with a balcony and fireplace if you’re feeling flush, it’s one of the best stays in NY.
Morgans
http://www.ianschragerhotels.com/home_search.html?morgans
See above. A little further downtown. Their restaurant, Asia de Cuba is also superb. And the bar in the basement is a great experience. Dark and ornate, it has a delightfully schizophrenic feel: 19th century New Orleans brothel meets Spanish Inquisition dungeon meets Blade Runner-esqe Tokyo, but carpeted wall-to-wall with beautiful people, and I love beautiful people, don’t you?
Live Music Places
Blue Note Jazz Club
performers include Meshell Ndegeocello
131 W. 3rd St
New York, NY 10012 (Grenwich Village)
212-475-8592
http://www.bluenote.net
Birdland Jazz Club
315 West 44th Street between 8th and 9th
212-581-3080
http://www.birdlandjazz.com
Arlene Grocery
http://www.arlene-grocery.com/
Eclectic rock, folk, country, jazz, poetry and beat happenings. Very comfortable.
Mercury Lounge
http://www.mercuryloungenyc.com/
Rock and jazz and all kinas of good staff.
CBGB
http://www.cbgb.com/
Legendary Punk venue. A must see just because so many important shows have been played here.
Knitting Factory
http://www.knittingfactory.com/index.cfm
Truly great jazz venue.
Zinc
http://www.zincbar.com/index.html
More good jazz. Great Room.
Getting About
New York Limo
Want to arrive in style? Traveling with a large group of friends or family. Visiting a number of sights in a short period of time? A limo may be the most efficient and cost effective way for you to see New York.
Limos are price competitive with Taxis - and sometimes work out cheaper because you don't pay extra for traffic and never have to worry about paying extra for going on an indirect route or making multiple stops.
Limos are often referred to as Towncars (normally a black licoln or cadillac) and they can be more efficient over any kind of distance as you can negotiate the price up front (in fact it is essential as they do not have a meter).
New York Taxi
Taxis are best for three or four people or for short distances especially going uptown or downtown (cross town traffic can be difficult)
JFK is a set price fare to Manhattan of $38 + Tolls + Tips (about $42 + Tips 14-20%)
Out of Manhattan there are other cheaper taxi services (the downside is they often dont have much english) - but if you go to brooklyn, get hold of the phone number for eastern as they will get you a car quickly and the fare will be quoted upfront normally about $15 + tip
New York Subway
Subway fare is $2. One day, one week and one month passes are also available. The subway is the best way to travel long distances and is most cost effective if you have only one or two people - the most important thing to know is uptown and downtown north of the park is Harlem which can get a little unsafe so make sure you are taking a south line from 72nd downtown.
New York Bus
Some people prefer the bus to the subway because they are above ground and can see the sights, its about the same price as the subway but you have to have coins
Posted by crispin at 11:46 PM